Gabriela Mateo

Nazaré Surf travel in itself is always an adventure: the nature of chasing ‘swells’, finding the perfect break, wanting to stay, but also wanting to explore more, what if the wave is better at the other side of the cliff?. Is the grass greener on the other side? It is until you are up close that you realize how important being in shape is. Paddling becomes a hassle after last night’s beers. Oxygen capacity somewhat lower and muscles not giving their full potential. The contradiction of the lifestyle of a surfer, and for many others as well, is this: finding balance. At the professional level, seriousness is taken, and I profoundly admire how much zen these surfers achieve. Big wave surfing, as any extreme sport, amazes anyone who watches it, but I think there should be some contemplation on the discipline of these athletes more than the feat itself. Their training goes beyond physical. Underwater breathing times ranging from 30 seconds for the average surfer up to 5 minutes for big wave surfers. Hypoxic training takes more than increasing lung capacity, it requires crossing psychological barriers. The amount of adrenaline that kicks in during a big session is not the only survival element. The mind has to really focus during such situations and you have to be a skilled watermen to handle long ‘holddowns’. When we arrived at Nazaré, I was instantly moved, surprised at the amount of white water moving, in all directions. I walked towards the ocean and could barely see the peaks. In the distance, I thought I saw some jetskis. I tell my friend and travel companion, and she suggests we drive up. The beautiful cobblestoned Portuguese seaside town has its charm, but the main attractive is the massive wave. As the rest of the country, the locals are friendly and the seafood is really good. February is month of carnaval and many families bring their kids in costumes to the parade. It seems odd, remembering the times of castles and swords, when the word ‘brave’ had a different meaning. Now it was in a different context. ‘Na ondas mais grandes du mundo’ reads in a banner as hundreds of people casually walk down to the far end of the cliff, where the red lighthouse and small fort stand. A few Brazilians, Italians and Portuguese are waiting for a ‘black’ swell, estimated between 25 and 40 feet (8 to 12 meters). Like any other risky sport, thousands of spectators were awaiting the show. On the way up we were super stoked, both of us being our first time in Portugal and witnessing a big wave. The previous night I had commented to another surf traveller who I knew had visited South America, that this might give you that feeling Iguazú Falls gives you- a sense of how small and powerless we are. Nature being the ultimate and strongest force out there. Getting there was a mixture of the rushing sound and the almost infinite amount of whitewater jumping and running as fast as gravity allows. Another important element of this practice is trust. Trust in one’s body, trust in one’s board and trust in your jetski partner. They take turns, one day you tow, the next you are towed. It was amazing when Lucas Chumbo managed to go down the face of this massive avalanche, go straight, up and out the end, everyone cheering, but then be caught by the next wave’s whitewater. The jetski rescued him quickly, but then both were caught by the next wave. Nazaré is so big and unpredictable that the difference between one set and another is abismal. A second jetski had to come to save them. Definitely a highlight of my surfing life, heck, my life, this day has transcended and aided my mental and spiritual outlook on facing waves. Back in Costa Rica, I use the memories of Nazaré to tell myself, these are not big waves, ‘it’s all relative’. 2 meter Hermosa is a challenge for any surfer that visits Central Pacific’s number one beach break (perhaps Esterillos), and the trick is to focus: focus on your breath, focus on letting go and then coming back, to your board, to the waves, to your body.