Article for gripped.com
Article for gripped.com:
The Evolution of Climbing Gear: From Ropes to
Revolution | Gripped.com
Description: Learn the history of climbing gear, from hemp ropes to modern high-tech
cams. Learn just how innovation has revolutionized climbing across Canada and the
world.
Introduction:
The sport of climbing would not have been shaped as it has without climbing gear. If
nothing else, the climbing equipment has been nothing short of revolutionary, from
primitive hemp ropes and nailed boots to full-on high-tech harnesses and camming
devices. Relying on their gear as a lifeline, Canadian climbers move up from the
crags of the rugged peaks of the Rockies to the icy crags of the Laurentians.
I discuss the history and development of climbing gear and how technological
developments have helped make climbing safer, more accessible, and, by extension,
more exciting.
The Early Days: Simplicity and Risk
Climbing as a sport was an activity that was reserved only for the bolder and more
fearless during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. There was very little gear
involved, most of it adapted from other activities.
● Hemp Ropes–-The weight of such ropes, they tend to rot had little fall
protection.
● Nailed Boots– Ordinary work boots that have nails fastened to the sole for
traction.
● Basic ice axes – Used more for balance than safety.
The Alpine Club of Canada (ACC)
The Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) was founded in 1906 and became instrumental
early in Canadian mountaineering. Jagged peaks, unpredictable weather, and
brutal terrain all awaited the climbers, who were expected to be resourceful and
determined. At this time, a rope, an ice axe, and a desire to scale mountains were
the only tools needed.
Mogul, not just in Canada but around the world, and think of the times being
represented were mountaineers who put much effort and sacrifice into pushing the
limits of man in vertical environments.
The Birth of Modern Climbing Gear:
In the mid-20th century, climbing gear came of age as materials and
manufacturing capabilities advanced during World War II. Nylon ropes in the
1940s were the biggest revolution.
Key Innovations of the Time
● Nylon ropes – Stronger, lighter, and far more durable than hemp.
● Kernmantle ropes – Made of a flexible core (the kern) encased with a
protective sheath (the mantle) that increases safety.
● Pitons – Metal spikes hammered into cracks for protection.
In the post-war years, Canadian mountaineering exploded, and pioneers such as
Hans Gmoser began to explore the untouched wilderness. But, although pitons
were safe, they were destructive of rock surfaces, and thus, there came the search
for more acceptable alternatives.
The Rise of Clean Climbing:
Things changed pretty radically in both climbing ethics and equipment during the
1970s. If you’re a fan of Netflix’s Next Gen series (which is a must-watch on my list),
then it was inspired by climbers like Yvon Chouinard (Patagonia Founder) taking
clean climbing one step further.
The Shift from Pitons to Nuts
● Nuts (chocks): Small wedged metal pieces are inserted into cracks,
offering protection without ruining the rock.
● Hexentrics (hexes): Larger, more stable nuts for added security.
Impact on Canadian Climbing
Clean climbing was especially important given Canada’s pristine rock faces and
untouched wilderness. Initially used on the west coast of Canada, from Squamish,
BC, to the Bugaboos, climbers adopted the new gear to protect the country’s
natural rock while also increasing the limits of the climb.
The Cam Revolution: A Game-Changer for Climbing Gear
Spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs) were introduced during the 1980s and
revolutionized rock climbing. The devices were invented by Ray Jardine and
provided the following facilities:
✅ Active expansion – Some implementation of Cams would make them suitable
for conformation to rock surfaces for better stability and a more predictable
performance.
✅ Faster (than nuts) and more versatile – cams could be fitted more quickly and
placed anywhere on the gun and its parts.
✅ Greater security – Improves climbing fall protection for those pushing new
grades.
Once widely adopted by Canadian climbers, Cams were used to make
breakthrough ascents on Yamnuska, Alberta, and the Valhalla Range, BC.
The Evolution of Harnesses and Climbing Shoes
The gear to connect climbers to the rock advanced as protection devices did.
The Harness Revolution
Tying ropes directly around their waists was uncomfortable as well as dangerous for
the early climbers. In the 1960s and 70s, together with their cars, harnesses
became more comfortable and safer; by then, they began to include:
● Padded waistbands for extra comfort.
● Adjustable leg loops for a customized fit.
● Belay loops for secure rope management.
Boots Versus Precision Footwear: Climbing Shoes
➔ Heavy and ineffective for precision were nailed boots.
➔ (rubber-soled shoe 1970s) Improved grip but lacked performance.
Sticky rubber shoes (1980s–present) → Designed for specific climbing styles:
➔ Aggressive shoes for bouldering
➔ Supportive shoes for big walls
‘For the Canadian climber, proper footwear is essential, no matter if smearing
Quebec granite or crimping onto Ontario’s limestone.’
Ice Climbing: A Canadian Specialty
Ice climbing has become part of Canadian national culture because of Canada’s icy
landscapes. It forged ahead with all the gear as cutting edge as:
● More ergonomic for the steep ascents / more curved ice axes.
● Customizable spikes for different ice conditions (modular crampons).
Due to its world-class ice climbing destinations, such as the Canadian Rockies
and Icefields Parkway, Canada has cranked out some of the world’s best ice
climbers.
The Digital Age: Tech Meets Tradition
There are now also influences of technology and digital tools on modern climbing.
💻 Mountain Project and Guidebooks apps give instant route access.
⌚ Wearables – Smartwatches track climbing performance and heart rate.
📸 Social climbers share, inspire new generations, and stay connected through
social media.
Technology plays a role in climbing, but it is ultimately determined by skill, courage,
and getting into nature.
The Future of Climbing Gear
So, what’s next? Expect to see:
🔬 Graphene and ultra-light materials – Making gear even lighter and stronger.
Eco-friendly innovations – biodegradable ropes and seaweed oil; sustainable
production methods.
🦾 Gear that analyzes stress points and makes everything safer using AI and smart
gear.
The future is brighter for Canadian climbers who will continue doing greater
exploration and adventuring.
Conclusion: A Sport Defined by Innovation
The story of human ingenuity and adventure reads from the evolution of climbing
gear. Hemp ropes and nailed boots have evolved into cams and smart climbing
shoes, with gadgets and gizmos defining exactly what is possible in the sport.
To Canadian climbers, gear is not just equipment; it is the link between past and
future generations. Climbers scale remote peaks in Yukon or bouldering in British
Columbia with the best possible gear in the world.
Well, what climbing gear do you use?
Tell us in the comments! Are you climbing without the one piece of gear you couldn’t
=ascend without?
🏔️💪
FAQs About Climbing Gear Evolution
❓ What was the biggest item of climbing innovation?
✅ In the 1940s, nylon ropes were introduced and have completely revolutionized
climbing safety.
❓ Why were pitons replaced by climbers?
✅ Rock faces were pitoned, damaging them to the point of adopting clean climbing
gear such as nuts and cams.
❓ Technology has in what way affected climbing?
I determine the future of climbing as smart gear, digital apps, and also eco-friendly
materials.
❓ What is the best beginner climbing gear?
✅ Starter items include a harness, climbing shoes, helmet, and belay device.
❓ What is climbing in Canada?
✅ There is world-class climbing in the Rockies, Squamish, and beyond!