Deja Dragovic

LIFE ON THE ROAD REAL TRAVEL By Deja Dragovic I came, I saw, I drove through California State Route 1—on the road from San Francisco to San Luis Obispo. I PHILIP LEE HARVEY was determined to make this expedition a perfect mix of adrenaline-laced drives, lazy sun-drenched beach stops and photo opportunities. Not only does California’s Highway 1 have all that—it serves it up deliciously. There is something so inspiring in just revving the engine and exploring a coastal road, armed only with your thoughts and great music. I delight in driving long distances to a great music set, or just the loud silence of perplexing thoughts, sometimes without a particular destination in mind. It’s the perfect stress-relief, almost an escape…I dive out of the mystic San Francisco fog and register the city heavy with traffic disappearing in my rear-view mirror. As a bigcity girl, I love around-the-clock activities, but after a few miles on the road, I start to neutralise nostalgia for lights, noise and crowds, and give in to the refreshing sea breeze and murmur of rolling waves. Ahead of me is a pristine ocean coastline dotted with beautiful little communities, but otherwise minimal development, preserving the natural contour of this scenic road carved into the zigzagging cliffs. The scenery is so impressive that it’s hard to concentrate on driving. The waves enfold rugged cliffs and beaches as the road snakes dramatically along the coast. Slowly I drive past Half Moon Bay and a chain of wild, windswept beaches and spectacular surf waves. The small communities along the coast are enticing and I fight off the urge to stop at each little coffee house, restaurant and souvenir shop. There aren’t that many restaurants along the route but those that I spotted, such as Rocky Point and Nepenthe, offer overwhelming panoramas, though their refreshments clearly include a viewing toll. But it’s the road itself, with its unique contours, magnificent natural environment and serenity that hypnotises me, making this trip sui generis. People visit California all yearround and there’s never truly an off season. Despite this, I find my route is seldom busy—and if I spot a convoy of commuters or tourists ahead threatening to slow down my progress, I find the best solution is just to park on the roadside and enjoy the beautiful views of the ocean and its wildlife. Though Ahead of me is a pristine ocean coastline dotted with beautiful little communities California’s Big Sur coastline. DXiZ_)''0 37 Real Travel not much of an animal lover, I was entertained by glimpses of playful seals, otters, sea lions and pelicans clutching fish in their beaks. The Big Sur fragment of the coastline stretches southwards from the Carmel River to San Corpoforo Creek for roughly 90 miles. It offers no exits at all as it’s bordered all the way by the steep, narrow Santa Lucia Mountains, which rise majestically before giving way to a rugged cliff face, which dramatically meets the ocean below. Carmel to San Luis Obispo can be driven in four hours, but I decide to take my own sweet time. Leaving Carmel and its fine public beach behind, I feel an urge to dip my feet in the fluffy sand. So I head down a wide meadow path, which veers from the main road parallel to the Big Sur River. It leads me to the delightful powdery Andrew Molera Beach, with views of steep sea cliffs and cypress trees sashaying in the breeze. I sit on the calm beach, sheltered from the wind by a large bluff to the north, listening to a silence interrupted only by the whispers of nature. South of Point Lobos State RICH REID (RIGHT), BLAINE FRANGER (TOP) 8I; Highway 1, Big Sur, at night. Reserve, the cliffs are speckled with a handful of extravagant contemporary houses. I imagine each one is somebody’s beautiful retirement home, a reality escape, a source of inspiration…or aspiration. The views are breathtaking and the highway sprawls ahead, dropping below its average elevation, making the journey relaxing and liberating. The road leads away from the coast for a bit and submerges into an enchanting redwood forest—a kaleidoscope of shimmering sunrays peaking Andrew Molera Beach on the Big Sur coastline, with views of the Santa Lucia Mountains. through tall trees. This stretch of my trip runs parallel to a canyon, so a few arch bridges follow and the road rises to heights perfect for panoramic views of the coast and the sea, such as the Gorda Outlook, as the Santa Lucia Mountains materialise below. The final stage of my journey twists so fabulously that I feel an exhilarating adrenalin rush pulsing through my body. The road gently oscillates from sea level to panoramic heights, offering aweinspiring views alternating with blind spots which continually change my expectations of what lies around the next corner. The last 20-odd miles from Morro Bay past San Luis Obispo weave along the coast just as the sun sets, streaking the sky in warm tones and mirroring gorgeous orange hues onto the sea beneath. That unbroken dyed horizon follows me along, and I watch the sun melt so soothingly for what seems like an eternity when I remember Saint Exupéry’s The Little Prince, whose sorrow was stimulated by sunsets: “One loves the sunset when one is so sad.” I share the sentiment with a melancholy smile and pull up for gas. DXiZ_)''0 39