Danielle Barnes

Restaurant review: Bold flavours and an Italian flair Dive into a selection of fresh tastes and bold flavours Armed with big appetites, we headed to a newly revamped restaurant in the trendy area of Camps Bay in Cape Town. The restaurant: Zenzero. Food: Italian. Expectations: High. A fun outside seating area that borders the lively main road. PHOTO: Courtesy of Zenzero We were greeted by the manager for the evening, who graciously showed us to our table alongside a bookshelf-lined wall. In fact, three of the four walls in this restaurant are covered from top to bottom with bookshelves that house at least a few thousand books in total. (We counted!) The look and feel of the second-hand books are complemented by the richness and crispness of the table décor. In fact, Zenzero recently went through an extensive revamp, which was conceptualised by Soda Design in collaboration with Kove Collection MD Paul Kovensky. Neutral tones and warm textures abound, and custom-made light fixtures give the restaurant a unique touch of glam. The bookshelf-lined walls give a home-away-from-home feel. PHOTO: Courtesy of Zenzero Time for the show to begin Kove Collection Group Head Chef Amber Deetlefs and her team have extended the menu to feature authentically Italian breakfast, lunch and dinner offerings. ‘The updated menu reflects the inimitable spirit of the stunning location and la dolce vita – the typically Italian concept of living life to the fullest,’ says Deetlefs. ‘Flavours are still punchy and robust, ingredients are fresh and helpings are generous.’ For lunch and dinner, share a selection of antipasti (such as insalata panzanella with tomato, burrata, basil and torn bread). Mains include classic pasta dishes (from spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino to linguine alle vongole), fish (from lemon sole with herb butter, capers and anchovies to pesce fritto with pickled vegetables and squid-ink aioli), poultry (chicken saltimbocca with prosciutto and sage brown butter) and meat (slow-roast lamb shank). To start off we ordered an Italian classic, the Sicilian arancini with Bolognese, tomato sauce and Parmigiano-Reggiano, and took a dip in the ocean with calamari fritti with sea salt, black pepper, garlic and lemon. Next it was time for the mains, and this restaurant pulled out all the stops. The first main we enjoyed was a fillet tagliata with Parmigiano-Reggiano, rocket pesto, confit tomato and an aged balsamic reduction. The fillet was cooked to perfection and the meat literally melted in our mouths. Setup Timeout Error: Setup took longer than 30 seconds to complete. Fillet tagliata with Parmigiano-Reggiano, rocket pesto, confit tomato and an aged balsamic reduction. PHOTO: Courtesy of Zenzero The richness of the emerald-green rocket pesto forms a stark contrast to the pitchblack balsamic reduction. The latter adds a much-needed sweetness that breaks through the richness of the meat and rocket pesto. Perfection! The second main, a succulent rib-eye with origanum, sea salt and olive oil, proved to be a firm favourite. The meat had an incredibly juicy and tender centre. The flavours came together to produce a stellar dish and there was nothing left on either plate when the dishes were removed from the table. Rib-eye with origanum, sea salt and olive oil. PHOTO: Courtesy of Zenzero Finally, we were coaxed into enjoying a sweet finale in the form of dessert. We decided to share the white chocolate cheesecake with sour cherries and vanilla ice cream. The creaminess of the cheesecake was balanced by the crunchiness of the crumbs, finished off with delicious cherries and smooth vanilla ice cream. A sure winner and the perfect ending to our meal. White chocolate cheesecake with sour cherries and vanilla ice cream. PHOTO: Courtesy of Zenzero For next time The only regret of the night is not having enough space to try more dishes off the menu. So the best we can do is look forward to our next visit, when we want to try the seared tuna with tomato, olive, thyme, clam belly, shallots, garlic, lemon and fennel. Just look at those colours! Seared tuna with tomato, olive, thyme, clam belly, shallots, garlic, lemon and fennel. PHOTO: Courtesy of Zenzero Then, for something fresh and summery, this dessert of frozen nougat with Cointreau, fresh citrus and olive-oil sponge will hit the spot! Frozen nougat with cointreau, fresh citrus and olive-oil sponge. PHOTO: Courtesy of Zenzero It’s all about the experience A stellar menu and ideal location is one thing, but world-class service makes any restaurant stand out. And this is certainly the case at Zenzero. The person who served us, Jane, was full of smiles and had expert knowledge of the menu. An incredible talent in an equally incredible restaurant. More about the Kove Collection: Evolution. Experience. Excellence. The Kove Collection is synonymous with something special. Whether it’s an unforgettable meal in a sublime setting or an inspiring stay at a beautiful boutique hotel, Paul Kovensky and his teams deliver exceptional experiences that keep guests coming back for more. COVER PHOTO: Courtesy of Zenzero